One of my friends from the Bay Area was coming to town for a few days, and mistakenly asked me what we should do. Why, Barca is playing int he Champions League, of course! He didn’t stand a chance. While there are a large number of quite brilliant things to do in this wonderful city, I could only steer him to the Camp Nou and the unparalleled adventure that comes with going to a Champions League match. Ok, maybe a trip to the Sagrada Familia, dinner out at any of a bushel full of great restaurants, finding our way to one of the great places to stay out until 5am – but no. Camp Nou it is.

In my typical ritual now, throw on the Barca kit, walk to the Princessa Sofia, and have a drink before the match with my friends in futbol. On a Tuesday night, hard to see much difference from the traditional weekend match. Champions League home opener bringing out a good crush of people, 70,000 all in – not bad. Starting to see some cracks in the attendance armor though. Friends in town have said that CL matches used to draw a near full house – not sure if that’s economic, as Spain, after all has something on the order of 20% unemployment right now, or just the dilution of importance of the Group Stage as it currently exists – who the F*@% is Rubin Kazan anyway?! (more on this later).

After meeting friends from town, and friends from out of town, head to the match. Quick tip to go into the stadium guide. The “access” gate on your tickets is only the “recommended” access gate. You can actually get into the stadium through any access, and let me tell you – it takes much less time to walk to the opposite side of the stadium from within the access gates than it does externally. I’m not exactly sure why this is a revelation, since is says “Recommended Access” right on the tickets – but well, there you go. Also, couldn’t print the tickets at home for this match, so needed to leave a little extra time to pick them up from the Stadium. I’m assuming this is due to Champions League, but we’ll see if there is any pattern. This was actually quite a bit easier than expected once you determine that the ticket booths ringing the stadium are, in fact, open. Call it the traditional Spanish “customer service” extraordinaire.

It is again a fall night – comfortable, but a crispness to the air.We do well in our ticket purchase, only a row off the field – top of the D. The coin flip goes our way and we get to watch Barca attack to begin the first half. As we settle in before kickoff – I’m explaining how these matches have tended to be over in 30 minutes as Barca rip the visiting team apart. We settle in, just in time for the Barca anthem. This is turning out to be one of my favorite non-futbol parts of the match. 70k fans, who all seem to know the Anthem. Since I’m going to have to learn something other than the final line, here it is (yes, Catalan, click for YouTube):

Tot el camp . A clamor rises
és un clam . from the pitch

som la gent blau-grana . We’re the blue and claret people
tant se val d´on venim, . Makes no difference where we hail from

si del sud o del nord, . Whether it’s from the south or the north
ara estem d´acord, . Now we all agree

estem d´acord . we all agree,
una bandera ens agermana: . One flag unites us in brotherhood

blau-grana al vent, . Blue and claret flowing in the wind
un crit valent, . One valiant cry

tenim un nom, . We’ve got a name
el sap tothom: . that everyone knows:

Barça! Barça! Baaarça!

Jugadors . Players,

Seguidors . Supporters
tots units fem força: . United we are strong

són molts anys plens d´afanys, . So much glory through the years
són molts gols que hem cridat, . Oh, the many goals we’ve cheered

i s´ha demostrat, s´ha demostrat, . And it has been proven, it has been proven
que mai ningú no ens podrà tórcer: . That no one can break us

Blau-grana al vent, . Blue and claret flowing in the wind,
un crit valent, . One valiant cry

tenim un nom, . We’ve got a name
el sap tothom: . that everyone knows:

Barça! Barça! Baaarça

So, if you’re playing at home, this really brings the hair standing on the back of your neck. Something brilliant and powerful, simple and shared. Perhaps the reading of Catalan history, how Barca became the only symbol of free expression for the Catalan people under Franco – even though as I understand it, the anthem was only introduced as part of the 75th anniversary celebrations in 1974. Is it American to understand and empathize with the repression of a people and their longing to be free, or is that just human? Hard to say, but it’s tangible – it’s in the air, and constantly served up in reminder in the expressions of Catalan independence from Spain that are inescapable in Barcelona, especially around La Merce and La Diada (Barcelonese holidays in the last couple of weeks).

Funny side story, on La Diada (the National Day of C atalonia), one of those things you wouldn’t think of as an American – it’s a holiday, so the family goes out in another fast emerging ritual in Barcelona, the dinner/tapas in Borne or Barri Gotic, and we end up at a brilliant little Tapas place called Origens. So, it’s the National Day of Catalonia, we’re in a Tapas place that is “the gastronomic and cultural space that corresponds to the first and only chain of restaurant-shops dedicated, in its entirety, to Catalan gastronomy” and my middle son has selected to wear his Spain National Team jersey. Yes, well if you’re culturally sensitive you recognize that this is not necessarily the smartest idea in thew world. We get an absolute lecture from a waiter (we assume it was a lecture, it was in Catalan), but get ours in when he comes back. “Xavi, Inesta, Puyol, Pique jugador de Espana, no?” which seems to save a little grace for us in the end.

Back to the match.

It actually turns out to be a bit competitive. Thankfully the boys from Kiev couldn’t finish because our defense certainly looked a bit suspect tonight. From our side of the stadium it was a little hard to see who was the biggest culprit, but the defense looked unbalanced for significant portions of the attacking play from Dynamo. Again I’ve scanned the player ratings post match, and these guys are getting marks for the win. If Dynamo could have had just a little more quality in the attacking third, there could have been significant trouble tonight. Whether Alves was too far up the pitch, or Abidal who was quite poor last year is to blame – it is hard to say – but thankfully Puyol had a man of the match performance tonight and kept the sheet clean.It was dicey at times though for sure.

You’re probably tired of hearing me praise Xavi, Messi and Inbra already, but again the play between these three was utterly impeccable. Pedro who managed to put hist 3rd this year into the back of the net is making a serious bid for significant playing time (and scored an absolute cracker in the following match with Almeria). What kind of challenge does this put in the way of Krkic getting any time when he gets back from injury.Regardless, all the class was on the Barca side, which eventually ran out to a tight, but always in control victory.

One would have to say that Dynamo did make a serious match of it though. They had more possession and better  chances than anyone else I’ve seen at the Camp Nou this season. The first team, in fact, to show up and not be frightened. This doesn’t say much about Atletico Madrid now does it? It was even a bit odd to see Sheva looking quite lively out there, although a mate after the match described it more as “running around” than actually being effective. He certainly spent enough time in the ear of the referee.

All in all, a good 2-0 result and a memory with a good friend from the USA, who has sent me a couple of messages since describing the thrill of the experience, and coming from a non-futbol background at that.

At some point in the adventure I’ll post a stadium review of some sort to make it a little easier for anyone who wants to find their way to a La Liga match. FC Barcelona have made it very easy to acquire tickets. On the regular website they have a system in place to allow season ticket holders to put their tickets up for sale, seamless to anyone dropping in. You can pick your section and your seat, and the premium as I understand it is only 10% to 20% over face value. Compared to what I’ve seen for SF Giants games and other ticket resale alternatives in the States, this seems like a pretty good deal to me.

Given the number of matches we’ll see, I am now waiting for my FCB Socio (membership) card to show up – a process that went very smoothly online. With the discounts on tickets and other related gear, and benefits of away ticket availability it was an easy choice. You also have to be a Socio to acquire season tickets, but we’re holding off on that until next year.

The weather has definitely “turned” as one local has described us, and fall is in the air as I and 85,000 of my closest Barcelona friends descend on the Stadium. Still a nice walk, although with a sweatshirt this time (for a 10pm, or 2200 kick-off). Around the stadium in most directions are cafe’s and bars where lots of folks gather, have a drink and chat with friends before the match. They do not serve alcohol at the match, so this is your last opportunity to take in an adult beverage. The Catalans take it all very easily and orderly for the most part and there are no sightings of groups of young men working hard to get smashed and rowdy before the match.

As I come in from the North, or NW – or the Maria Christina Metro stop, there are 5 or 6 very popular places along the Diagonal (including the ubiquitous Starbucks) before turning on Joan XIII heading directly to Camp Nou. I am meeting friends at the Princessa Sofia hotel bar – a nice place and also popular meeting point. They have several nice TV’s and a nice patio area set up, granted in the driveway, so an interesting place to people watch on game days for sure.

I’ve heard lots of good things about this hotel both from locals and from out of town friends who’ve stayed there – if you’re looking for 5 star accommodation and a Barca match is in the cards – hard to beat. It is literally a 5 minute walk to the stadium. For regular visits to Barcelona, it’s centrally located and has good Metro access, although I personally prefer some of the boutique hotels (Prestige Passeig de Gracia, and Hotel Omm, are my two favorites, depending on your personal tastes and budget).

A quick note on my seats. Front row at the top of the D – no one in front of me other than the guards and the players – you could smell the grass – as they say. Sounds expensive? No – not really. 100 Euro through the FCB website on the day before the match. Best $150 USD ticket I’ve ever bought, and I’ve attended many matches and sat in many seats, Cat 1, 2 and 3 enjoying something different from each vantage point. I have to say, this was a new experience, and I felt right in there being that close. Of course, I could only get 1 ticket there, but well worth it on my solo trip tonight.

These seats were particularly enjoyable as Barca absolutely ran rampant over Atletico in the first 40 minutes with goals being celebrated right in front of me on 3 of those occasions. I haven’t seen Atletico this year, but they were simply overrun. Irresistible Barca. The match was effectively over after the 4th goal with a noticeable lift off the gas pedal after that. It was not shocking to see Atleti pull one back just before the break.

Busquets had a shocker of a match and was very poor despite a rather brilliant pass to Ibra (who finished nicely) to open the scoreline. Despite finally taking his goal, Keita was generally average as well not connecting his passes as he should. In fact, for the absolute demolition they served up on the night and the commanding display by the forward line, many in the Barca squad were sub-par especially at the back. After a great start in Getafe, Chigrynskiy looked off the pace all night. Maxwell had a solid outing, but was sloppy in possession and left a bit too much space for the speedy Atleti forwards.

I’ve looked at a match report or two with very high player ratings, and it doesn’t look like those fellows watched the match. While it was a glorious victory and if anything the scoreline flattered Atleti, afterward both Guardioli, and the ever present Cruyff in his El Periodico column both cited concern about improvement in the squad. A funny thing this criticism for a dominating performance, but then again, Barca are simply this good.

Did we catch a glimpse of what Ibrahimovic was brought here for? A full extension swipe of the foot that gets a “seeing eye” goal in off the post (hey, a finish is a finish and can I use baseball analogies in futbol writing anyway?), and a nice cut back across the 6 yard line for Messi to head in. 2 Games, 2 Goals, 1 Assist. For someone still rounding back into form, that’s not a bad start. Difficult to see on a telecast whether the performance was a bit more energized than against Sporting, but the new “do” looked more like he fits in the team.

Pep is clearly trying to blood the youngsters. It would be interesting to see if this is more a function of the serious lack of squad depth, or the genuine belief these guys are ready. Jeffren and Pedro in the starting line up tonight, and hard to recall too many specifics of either of their performances, it just looked like Barca were having a bit more challenging time putting their typically dominant stamp on the match. Not that troublesome tonight as Getafe were infrequently troublesome themselves, but let’s hope the big guns can go injury free and the midfield picks up a reinforcement or two  in January. Against a better side that could have been more problematic.

The match changed pretty dramatically with the introduction of Iniesta and Messi, not surprisingly. Whatever that needed to click did, and as one might imagine, Barca found their form. Iniesta looked good on his return, a little short of match fit – but the combination play improves dramatically with him in there. Messi! What do you say about the clear favorite for the Ballon D’or. Coming off what has to be an extremely frustrating couple of matches for country, he was abuzz on the pitch and scored his first for the year – in his first 20 minutes of the season. Perhaps my favorite Messi moment of the match was not his typically dazzling runs into the area (which were typically brilliant0, but a tracking back and pickpocketing the ball in Barca’s defensive third.

The strategy more generally of having the kids start the match with the big boys in reserve can be a bit dangerous over time. Iniesta and Messi each had good reason to only play 30, so let’s hope that was it – a reflection of opponent and circumstance. It worked to perfection tonight, but it gets exposed more often than not when the team simply can’t turn it up when necessary.

New boy Chigrynskiy looked solid in defense. Pique is simply a rock back there, so I’m looking forward to seeing more of that combination. You could tell he’s still getting to know his teammates and a shaky moment or two, but overall I’m bullish. With Dani Alves right and Maxwell/Abidal left, where exactly do we play Puyol? The captain is an absolute monster but I always feel like we’re one random moment away from disaster when he’s out there. With Gabby Milito hopefully on the mend, our backline is looking pretty strong.

Next Up: A big Champions League match away at Inter! Too many intriguing story lines to count. Checking out the match at a local joint with a few new friends in futbol, Barcelona style.

When we came to Spain, it was the first thing that came to mind when seeing signs in the park with “no soccer” similarly placed.

Never one for simplicity, the combination of the disrespect of soccer in the US historically (are we improving? more on thoughts there later), reminds me of the early skateboarding phenomenon a bit – and, by the way, where exactly would soccer in the US have enough “juice” for parks and rec departments to even worry about erecting a sign telling you not to play? I would have thought nowhere, but apparently in LA, which I was pleased to read a great post on, From the Left Wing a brilliant title (can you tell what position I grew up playing), albeit from December 2007. Culture and Soccer. I’m there!

Hopefully that helps. If you happen to spot a park with a “no soccer” sign, snap a picture and send it to me for the collection. We’ll see how many different signs we can find.

A quick shout out to Brucio at DuNord who provided a plug for this newly authored blog. If you’re not a reader already, Du Nord is one of a very select number of sites I visit every day to keep up with what’s going on in the world. A must read. Thanks Bruce!

The boys and I gear up the day before at the FCBotiga Megastore at the Nou Camp. We stuck to the basic new replica gear, Dante going with Messi, Damian with Ibrahimovic (always the striker with that one, even though he’s a goalie by trade). Interestingly it’s only recently that the major clubs have merchandised themselves so well – when I was here 10 years ago, nowhere near the same amount, variety (and cost) of the schwag (Do I really need Barca boxers anyway? In the realm of things, far better than Dallas Cowboys boxers I suppose). Good old American capitalism at its finest and perhaps one more reason why more and more money seems to be coming into football – large minimally tapped revenue streams being tapped in the intervening time period. I was reading through the budget figures for each team in La Liga, thanks to the Marca Guia de La Liga 2010 issue, and the growth in budget (with my level of Spanish, can’t exactly tell if that means revenue, or just expenses) was fairly surprising. The Barca figures for 05-06 were 260m Euro and for 09-10 are 405m Euro. For all my finance friends, that’s a CAGR of 12% – not bad for a “mature” industry.

Thankfully, although completely unplanned, our Apartment is within walking distance to Nou Camp. I don’t know what it is with this walking business, but we (or rather I) can’t seem to get enough of it. Living in the suburbs for so long where you can barely get the mail without getting in a car, perhaps I just have lots of miles still in my boots, or I’m a city boy at heart. Anyway, we’re getting a few funny looks along the way, being 35 minutes out and still 85 degrees with 90% humidity at 9pm – the day before school starts mind you. My kids are brilliant, and we’re having good fun on our way as their first experience. Dad, who wanted to hit a major FIFA tournament or match every year at one point has been slacking on the job. Aside from San Jose Earthquakes season tickets, it’s been since the 2002 World Cup that they’ve been to a big match (yes, they were 4, and 6 at the time). It feels good to get on with it again. As we get closer and closer to the stadium, you can start to feel the energy rise. The density of people continues to increase, and in the final few blocks before reaching Nou Camp they don’t even bother to keep the roads open to cars (although those ubiquitous scooters and mopeds still work hard at getting through). Walking in to the stadium and finding our seats, you can see the excitement on the kids faces – nothing quite like this in San Mateo or San Jose (given that they’d be asleep, or at least in bed on any given Monday night at 10pm – serious Dad points on that one), or anywhere in the US I would argue.

Aside from the absolute Sauna inside, our seats are great and we hear a smattering of French, absolutely no English, a little Spanish, and a whole lot of what we think is Catalan. 3 weeks in, it’s still difficult for any of us to distinguish between the two, but I ascribe that mostly to our lack of serious Spanish language skills as anything else. Everyone assures me this part gets easier (although you don’t necessarily get better at Catalan without some serious study). The players come out and lift the European Super Cup which they won on Friday night in Monaco against Shaktar. This is what has gotten me in a spot of hot water at home as I thought the game was Sunday night – giving us at least one more night between the match and the first day of school (which, by the way, my wife still thinks was intentional). I remember at one point several years ago being amazed at the energy of a mid-table opponent (Racing) on a Sunday night in February – at the time, I didn’t necessarily recognize that Sunday night IS La Liga, but I think tonight had to top it. Monday night, Sporting, who have a serious shot at being relegated, August Monday night (when half the city is still coming back from Holiday), and there’s easily 80k fans there fully engaged. Electric. Hair standing on the back of your neck. I wonder if one ever gets used to it (check back in several months and I’ll let you know).

From the perspective of the match, Barcelona easily handled it throughout. There was a slight wobble early on, in which it looked like Sporting should have capitalized, but that was the only moment in which there was ever any doubt. With a starting 11 that included a few of the kids, I can’t say I expected it to be quite such a stroll. I must say that on this night at least, I wholeheartedly disagree with Santiago Segurola (the journalist galactico as described by Phill Ball). Senior Segurola has said when comparing Real Madrid’s latest Galactico project to Barcelona: “…Barcelona on the other hand, need to play well to win. It’s a great virtue, but a potential weakness as well. If they play poorly, they lose.” I don’t think anyone watching tonight will say that Barcelona played particularly well, but they did, indeed, win quite handily – and all that without Iniesta and Messi, two massive players for the club. Ibrahimovic even got off the duck and scored his first goal (can you call it a duck when we’re still talking about the first official league match?), although the crowd would have given him considerably more time – every class touch and attempt on goal was energetically applauded, and chants of Ibra rained down on any number occasions. He is, however, still looking like it will take some time to click with this team and system, and I’m not altogether sure that his personality and work rate will fit in with the team – he is terribly casual out there while his teammates run their socks off. If he clicks in, he’ll score 40 – if not, it could be 40m Euro not so well spent. That must be some “feeling” Mr. Guardiola, but hey – what do I know – I didn’t just win the first Tripleta in Spanish league history.

Just a few gems from my boys for your reading pleasure: “This is way better live than on tv”; “isn’t it funny how the crowd screams at the ref when one of the barca players flop, but whistles at the player from the other team when doing the same”; “does Puyol start the game with wet hair?”; “what age do you get signed to the Barca youth academy”; “I just KNEW that Ibra would score”. The grins on their hot, exhausted faces say it all as we get home at 1am Tuesday morning…

So, who’s going down? I’ve got odds on Tenerife, Xerez almost as a lock, which leaves the 18th and final relegation slot up for a battle amongst Sporting (Gijon), Osasuna and Almeria – with Mallorca and Zaragoza as the next likely batch. Stay tuned – I may be much better on reading culture than prognosticating the La Liga tables at the end of the season – but then again…